5. EN FUET, AMB LA JELLABA MARRÓ

Mentre encara esmorzem arriba en Fuet, el nostre guia de la jellaba marró. Serà ell qui ens menarà -com un pastor  el seu ramat- a les millors pastures de la medina. Pastures que atiparan el cap, el cor i l’esperit. I de tant en tant, també enganyarem l’estòmac. És un tipus rialler. Sembla un bon home, però no inspira la mateixa confiança que  l’Alaui. S’asseu pacientment en un sofà d’una estança anexa d’on som nosaltres a esperar que estiguem a punt de marxa. Quan tothom està llest, ens despedim de la Radja –l’Alaui ha desaparegut- i travessem la gran porta de l’entrada. La porta, amb la mà de Fàtima que en fa de protectora, separa dues dimensions, dos móns que poc tenen a veure l’un amb l’altre, més enllà de compartir una cultura mil.lenària que en altres temps havia estat poderosa i capdavantera. De res serveix tot el que hem après abans, durant anys d’estudi i de vida als nostres països de més al nord. Cal despullar-se de prejudicis, angúnies, temors, fins i tot de les regles que ordenen les nostres activitats diàries. Observar, deixar-se dur i empapar-se a poc a poc de vida. En fuet detecta la nostra inseguretat i el nostre analfabetisme cultural i ens atura abans d’iniciar la ruta que ell té prevista. Només vol donar-nos unes indicacions bàsiques. De fet cinc paraules de vocabulari àrab i un consell. Les paraules: “som-hi, compte, aturar-se, hola, gràcies”. El consell: no despistar-se; la medina és realment un laberint difícil fins i tot per a alguns d’ells. Som-hi, doncs.

English version

While we are having breakfast,  Fuet, our brown djellaba guide, arrives. He will be the one who will lead us -as a shepherd his flock- to the best pastures of the medina. Pastures that will satisfy head, heart and spirit. And from time to time, we will also deceive our stomach. He is a cheerful person. He seems a good man, but he does not inspire the same confidence as Alaui. He sits patiently on a sofa in a room next to ours and waits for us until we are ready to go. Then, we say goodbye to Radja -Allaui has disappeared- and we cross the magnificent entrance door.The door with the protective Fatima’s hand separates two dimensions, two worlds that have little to do with one another, beyond sharing an ancient powerful culture in the past. Nothing of what we had learned before through years of study and experience in our own countries is useful now. It is necessary to take our prejudices, anguishes, fears, even  the rules that order our daily activities off. Observe, let ourselves be carried away and soaked up with life. Fuet detects our insecurity and our cultural illiteracy and decides to have a short break before continuing with his scheduled route. He just wants to give us some basic instructions. As a matter of fact, he only wants to teach us  five words of Arabic origin and a piece of advice. The words are: "let’s go, be careful, stop, hello and thank you" and the piece of advice:  do not switch off; the medina is a really difficult maze even for some of them. Let’s go, then.

4. NA RADJA

Tinc un deute amb la noia del somriure tímid, la veritable responsable del nostre benestar dins de casa –vull dir dins el riad, que és com casa nostra. Així com l’alaui esdevé el nostre salconduit al laberint, la Radja –aquest és el nom de la nostra amfitriona mora- és la pau del retorn a la llar, la rialla amable i tranquil.litzadora, i el descans del caminant. De bon matí ens la trobem al costat d’una taula escrupulosament parada, fent-nos una petita reverència amb el cap, gairebé imperceptible, i amb la mateixa rialla de sempre.

-Bonjour! Vous avez bien dormi? Veux un café?, un jus?- ens diu la Radja.

Ella també dorm al riad, n’és la cuinera i minyona les 24 hores quan hi ha hostes, sinó dorm a casa seva.

Una altra noia l’ajuda a la cuina i a l’hora de servir el menjar. Per a nosaltres, que ens sentim a casa, la relació jeràrquica, de servei, entre les noies i nosaltres, ens sorprèn sense incomodar-nos. A elles les incomoda el tracte cordial i veure’ns entrar a la cuina a buscar qualsevol cosa, les incomoda i les sorprèn.

Per esmorzar: croisants, torrades, una mena de donuts, pa de pessic, ous esparracats, suc, mantega, mermelada, cafè, llet, tot plegat prou energètic per encetar una llarga immersió a peu per la medina.  دعنا نذهب  "I ala"!!! (que vol dir "som-hi")

English version

I have a debt with the girl of the shy smile, the true responsible of our welfare in the house – I mean inside the riad, which is like our house.  As Alaui becomes our safe-conduct to the maze, Radja – this is the name of our Moroccan hostess - represents the peace of getting back home, the kind, reassuring smile and the relief after hours of endlessly walking. Early in the morning we find her next to a beautifully laid table , with a slight curtsy, almost imperceptible, greets each of us always with the same shy smile.

-Bonjour! Vous avez bien dormi? Veux un café? un jus?- Radja says.

She also sleeps in the riad; she’s a full-time cook and servant when there are guests (24 hours a day!); otherwise, she sleeps in her family home.

Another girl helps her in the kitchen and when they have to serve the meals. For us, who feel at home, the hierarchical relation of service between the girls and us, surprises but without making us feel uncomfortable. However, they really feel uneasy when we are too kind with them or even when we enter into the kitchen to look for something we need; this both astonishes and bothers them.

Breakfast starts with some croissants, toasts, bagels, fried eggs, cake, butter, jam, juice, coffee,  milk,… everything  energetic  enough to start a long walking immersion in the  Medina.  دعنا نذهب   "I ala"!!! (that  means “Let’s go!!")

3. L'OMBRA DE L'ERRANT INVISIBLE

El segon dia a Fes i encara no us he parlat de l'Alaui; un personatge important en aquesta història. No, no ha estat un descuit. He volgut respectar -ni que només fos per un temps- la seva voluntat de passar desapercebut, de no esdevenir mai protagonista, de ser-hi sense que es noti. Però ell hi ha estat de bon principi i ara, amb el seu permís, us el vull presentar. 

Rera el seu posat seriós, misteriós i fins i tot tristoi, que molts interpretarien com a poc amable i maleducat, s'hi amaga un personatge singular, que a petites pinzellades deixa entreveure el seu caràcter bonhomiós i servicial. Ens va acompanyar en arribar a la medina des d'una de les seves 7 portes fins al riad, amb el cap cot, una mà a la butxaca, una cigarreta a l'altra, i a certa distància de nosaltres., que seguíem el guia de la jellaba marró i ni ens adonàvem de  la seva existència. I un cop al riad,  acabada la seva missió, es va fer fonedís. A voltes el tornàvem a veure a la cuina, assegut en una cadira amb la mirada perduda, potser fent companyia a la cuinera -la noia del somriure tímid- o simplement esperant que algú li fes algun encàrrec; altres vegades apareixia a la terrassa per  amansir el gos que bordava en sentir la nostra presència: es quedava al seu costat, mirant-lo, com si xerrés amb ell, com si s'entenguessin amb la mirada i es quedava allà, immòbil d'esquena a nosaltres, i desapareixia quan el gos callava. I sempre amb la seva cigarreta als llavis. Tenia l'encàrrec de cuidar de nosaltres, d'estar a la nostra disposició, i ho feia amb la major discreció possible. 

Vivia al riad, n'era el vigilant i un dels homes de confiança de la mestressa, però gairebé mai no el veies ni el senties. Quan sortíem a deshores ens acompanyava, sempre en silenci i un xic allunyat de nosaltres. Uns cops havíem de seguir-lo, altres cops era ell qui ens seguia. Ens observava, i si creia que algú podia molestar-nos ens adelantava i ens feia caminar més ràpid o s'aturava i esperava que passéssim. Segurament semblava més vell del que realment era, però estava fort i àgil. Ens donava seguretat i esdevenia el garant de preservar el fil que ens permetia tornar a casa sense perdre'ns. L'ombra del nostre errant invisible era la nostra escorta; sabíem que hi era i, fins i tot quan no el vèiem, sentíem la seva presència i ens recomfortava.

Inglish version

Second day in Fes and I still haven’t said anything about *Alaui; an important character in this story. No, it has not been that I forgot him. I have wanted to respect –at least for a while- his will to go unnoticed, of never becoming a protagonist, of being there  without being aware of his presence. But he has been close to us from the very beginning and now, with his permission, I want to introduce him to you.

Behind his serious, mysterious and even sad demeanour, that many would interpret as unkind and impolite, a singular character hides, that with just a few stokes of the brush leaves to glimpse his helpful, good-natured character. In reaching the Medina in one of its magnificent doors, he accompanied us head bowed, a hand in one pocket and a cigarette on the other, to the riad. As we were following the guide of the brown djellaba we didn’t even realise  that he was there, too. Once in the riad, after finishing his mission, he melt. From time to time, we saw him again in the kitchen, sitting on a chair with lost look, perhaps keeping the cook -the girl of the shy smile- company or simply expecting that someone asked him to get a few things from the market; other times he was in the  terrace to calm down the dog that barked in feeling our presence: he stayed by its side, looking at it, as if he could chat to it, as if they understood each other just with the look,  and he remained there, motionless, giving his back to us, and disappeared when the dog was quiet. And always with a cigarette in mouth. He has been commissioned to take care of us, to be at our disposal, and he did it with the greater possible discretion. 

He lived in the riad, he was the watchman and  the hostess’ right-hand man, but  you hardly ever see or felt him. When we went out at odd hours, he came with us, always in silence and a bit far away from us. Sometimes we had to follow him; other times he was the one who closed the group. He always observed us, and if he thought that somebody could bother us, he overtook and made us walk faster or stopped and waited until we were in front of him. Surely he seemed older than what he really was, but he was strong and agile. He made us feel secure and became the guarantor to preserve the thread that allowed us  to go back home without getting lost. The shadow of our  invisible wander was our escort; we knew that he was there and, even when we didn’t see him, we could  feel his reassuring presence.

2. GINTÒNIC A FES

Embriagats per l’atmosfera del nostre palauet de somni: entre llum d’espelmes, de làmpades que pengen de sostres altíssims, voltats de catifes, coixins, domassos, canelobres, mosaics, acompanyats pel so dels 7 dolls de la font de l’estança principal de la planta baixa, reposem una estona abans de sopar. 

Al voltant d’una taula parada amb molta cura, fascinats per un luxe que contrasta amb el món exterior, la noia de la rialla tímida ens serveix un àpat reconfortant i saborós de menges gens estranyes. Viandes que sovint formen part de la nostra dieta diària, però que allà adquireixen una nova dimensió per com han estat cuinades i assaonades. Infinitud de platets, en desordre i mig amuntegats, omplen la taula: tabelles, albergínia escalibada, carabassó, samfaina, pastanaga, amanida, patates, llenties, olives. La nostra condició d’europeus ens permet gaudir d’una copa de vi i, segurament, d’un tiberi molt més generós del que poden regalar-se la majoria de marroquins de Fes. De segon, un exquisit tagim de pollastre amb llimona i de postres fruita. Res d’especial, però esperant trobar-nos rareses gastronòmiques potser difícils per al nostre paladar, ens sap a glòria. Res d’especial, però sí força especiat; segurament el condiment és l’element que li confereix la diferència més important.

Havent sopat, un gintònic a la terrasseta exterior de la part més alta del riad, des d’on podem contemplar el desordre arquitectònic de la medina vista des de dalt. L’estretor dels carrers, per on passàvem unes hores abans, ara s’intueix encara més prima, perquè les cases es veuen massa a tocar les unes de les altres per poder-hi dibuixar el mínim corriol entre elles. Silenci i pau en bona comanyia sota un cel estelat.

Tot convida al relaxament. I després de la copa apeteix descansar. Cal anar a dormir d’hora per posar-se en marxa ben aviat, però sense presses. Les habitacions són un luxe asiàtic més d’aquest magnífic resguard. Les cambres es troben al primer pis. Tot just sota nostre, al voltant d’una balconada que dóna al pati de la planta baixa. Bona nit i tapa’t.

English version

Enraptured by the enchanting atmosphere of our dreamlike palace, among light of candles, high ceiling chandeliers, surrounded by colourful carpets, cushions, mosaics, candelabras, damasks and accompanied by the sound of the 7 jet fountain of the main room on the ground floor, we rest a while before dinner.

Sitting around a table laid with a lot of care, fascinated by a luxury that contrasts with the outside, the shy smiling girl serves us a comforting and tasty meal of special dishes. Food that is often part of our daily diet, but that acquires a new dimension in that exotic site due to the way it has been cooked and seasoned.Vast numbers of tiny plates, displayed in disorder and half stacked, fill the table as an starter: green beans, pepper and aubergine, olives, lentils, boiled potatoes and carrots, salad, courgette …. Our condition of Europeans allows us to enjoy a glass of red wine and, probably, a much more generous meal than the one most of the Moroccan in Fes can usually have.

The main course consists of a delicious “tagim” of chicken with lemon sauce and some fruit as a final dessert. Nothing really strange for us, but expecting to find gastronomic oddities that might be difficult for our taste, the result is glorious. Nothing really weird, but extraordinarily seasoned; probably, being the seasoning the item that confers the real difference.

After dinner, a peaceful rest with the help of a comforting gin and tonic in the terrace on the riad’s top floor, allows us to gaze at the Medina architectural chaos from above. The narrowness of the streets, through where we walked by some hours before, now seems even thinner because the houses are so closed to each other that unable to draw the minimum path among them.  Silence and peace in good company under a starry sky. Everything invites to relax. And when the drink runs out, one longs for a rest. We need to go to sleep  so that we can set off early in the morning, but without haste. The rooms are one more Asian luxury of this magnificent building. The chambers are on the first floor. Just below us, a large balcony that faces the courtyard of the ground floor. Good night and sweet dreams.

1. FES: EL LABERINT MÀGIC

L'altre dia vam viatjar a un altre món. Pensàvem que havíem contractat un vol amb Ryanair, però no crec que aquesta companyia tingui catifes voladores amb vols directes a les mil i una nits.

Per un laberint infinit -on ni Teseu, amb el cabell d'Ariadna, n'hagués trobat el camí de sortida- vam transitar, acompanyats per un guia amb jellaba marró, que semblava caminar d'esma pel caòtic entrellat de carrerons i carrerons. Colors i olors noves i suggerents ens acompanyaven mentre ens endinsàvem al cor de la medina. Gairebé sense parlar, sota els efectes d'aquest beuratge màgic de perfums i tonalitats, seguíem les petjades del nostre guia. De sobte, en traspassar una arcada fosca que semblava no conduir enlloc, una gran porta a mà dreta se'ns obrí amb la rialla d'una jove, amb túnica grana adamascada i brodada, que ens saludava amb certa timidesa i ens convidava a entrar a un petit paradís. Un petit palau anomenat Daar Noor -o Riad de Carmen- que havia de convertir-se en el contrapunt d'aquell món -per a nosaltres desordenat, inquietant, encisador i plàcid alhora- que acabàvem de deixar rera la gran porta d'entrada; la possibilitat de retornar a un oasi que et transportava a temps remots d’una cultura mil.lenària. Sé que aquest només ha estat el primer viatge. Fes m’ha captivat. Hi tornaré. Molt aviat. Fins ara.

English version

A few days ago we travelled to another “world”. We thought we have booked on ordinary flight with Ryanair but the result was an amazing flight to Arabian Nights.

Through an infinitive maze, where even Theseus with the help of Ariane’s hair would be unable to find the exit, we walked along narrow streets with the help of an expert guide wearing the typical brown djellaba and slippers. Thousands of suggestive colours and smells went along with us while we were going inside the medina’s heart. Nearly without speaking, under the effects of this magic potion of odours and exotic tones, we followed the steps of our guide. Suddenly, while we were crossing a dark arcade which seemed to lead nowhere, a big door on the right side appeared. There, with a broad smile, a woman dressed up with an embroidered, deep-red Damask tunic was greeting and inviting us to enter into a small paradise: a tiny palace called Daar Noor or Carmen’s Riad has to become the contrast between the outside world – a distressing but at the same time  charming, placid chaos. The riad offered us the chance to meet an oasis which  made us travelled backwards into a remote, thousand-year-old culture. I know that this has just been my first journey. Fez has bewitched me: I promise I’ll come back very, very soon!